I read that if you lodge here you'll have access to the reservation. Is that correct? Or do you still have to pay a permit? All I want to do is to lodge here for a night or 2 and hike to the falls and back. No camping for me.

You still pay for a permit. I stayed for 2 nights and hiked to the falls the next day. Didn't get to the last falls. Terrain was more than what my son thought his 6yr old son could do. Totally beautiful there but u pay for every little thing.the 2 night stay at the lodge plus permit.our 2 night stay was $541.50. That didn't exclude our meals or any room complimentary service. Need to book about a year in advance. You will need to call several times.

Yes. There is a $50 permit fee to be on the trails.