Is 4wheel drive a must?

No, is roads for two wheels drive too..

Like cleghorn . Gave my 89 yj it first real work out , after all its mods . Dident do much of the fire road

I heard there was a fire road that runs through along side. Now I cant say im the best but i aint no rook lol

Yes

Highly recommended

There are plenty of bypasses but dont suggest it for a inexperienced driver in 2 wheel dr.