Owens Construction

Good question! There are no code requirements for ceiling heights in lower levels (i.e. basements), unless you are using that space as a habitable area. Habitable living space, like a bedroom, has to have a minimum of 7’ ceiling. That 7’ ceiling level could be ceiling tiles, drywall or if left open and painted, the bottom of the floor joists from the room above.

Good question! Most building codes are pretty clear as to what is required here to make stairs safe and accessible. Basically, if the stairs access a basement or cellar that is used for storage (not considered habitable space), then you simply need stairs that are built to code as far as the tread depth and the riser height is concerned as well as a simple rail to guard the open side(s). Regardless of whether the stairs are open or not, one handrail is required. If the area is finished (habitable), then the stairs must be enclosed below the rail height on both sides. This can be an open balustrade or solid wall(s). Codes only require one rail but consider railings on both sides. Convenience and comfort should easily outweigh the relatively inexpensive additional cost. Don’t forget about lighting the new stairwell. Most stairwells are terribly under lit. If you are unsure how to properly illuminate this space, there are many in the business who can professionally advise you and offer actual fixtures, bulbs and switches and controls worth considering an many different price points.

Good question! Yes and no, and maybe! Baths are pretty busy from a plumbing point of view. You need to not only accommodate several drain lines, but you must also add the hot and cold water supplies. Generally speaking, if the area below the proposed area is open and accessible, that’s good. If this area happens to be close to another bath or at least a 3 or 4” drain line below the floor line, then you are sure to save some additional plumbing costs. Usually adding a bath in existing space can be a challenge, particularly in older homes where space is at a premium. Sometimes space can be found fairly easily for that half bath. Three-quarter and full bath are a bit more of a challenge, requiring at least 50 square feet or so. If unsure if you have adequate space or the plumbing within a reasonable distance don’t hesitate to contact a design professional or that established remodeler you can trust.

Good question! Well, yes and no. Don’t even consider putting a family member in a lower level for any extended purpose or activity like sleeping without an egress window. This is one of the best codes around, requiring a secondary egress in a lower level. Imagine a situation where the stairs or the space above is blocked by some emergency and people below are trapped because there is only one way to escape. Never let a “Chuck and a Truck” talk you out of secondary egress if you are planning a bedroom in that lower level. This is why pulling a permit is so valuable to you as a homeowner - it protects you and your family from the guy who is only interested in selling you the job at the cheapest price. Not worth it, not to mention you can’t advertise that finished lower level has a bedroom when you go to sell unless that egress is in place. Realtors, inspectors and appraisers all know better than to allow that.

Stained concrete block or poured in place walls can indicate active moisture in the masonry product or an older problem that might have been previously corrected. Seasonal moisture or intermittent moisture due to rains, flooding, clogged gutters or yard drain lines or sprinklers (yes, sprinklers) can all cause come-and-go water spotting or active wetness. The only way to really tell is to moisture test these areas over a period of time, perhaps up to a year. There are several ways to test for moisture, some low tech, some high tech. Give your remodel pro a call as this is a terrible thing to cover up with a basement finish or to just avoid and wonder why your family might be dealing with breathing related issues that might be point sourced to this moisture issue.

Good question! Wood below grade can be a real problem and the short and long answer is: Don’t do it. There are proprietary products like sealers and floating substrates, some that even raise up the floor with areas below for nothing but problems to hide. Rule of thumb is that water always wins when introduced below grade with even the best prevention. Sooner or later a drain will clog, a sump pump will seize or that 50-year rain allows water intrusion. That aside, many older homes with basements have latent water problems below the slab or in the walls. Wood behaves very badly when the humidity is high anywhere and wood is at its worst when it is wetter on one side of the board than the other. Can you say severe cupping? Possible mold? Stinky space? Avoid this installation below grade. Luxury Vinyl Tiles and Planks offer a great alternative and can convincingly mimic a real hard wood floor.

Good question! Considering how much use a bath gets during the course of the day, not to mention those times where added family or guests puts a real strain on the bath, it should make sense that a bath project starts with a solid plan. Often, the plan is a simple replacement of fixtures, other times it might involve a full gut job and possible expansion into adjacent space such as a closet or perhaps a dormer addition that would add space not utilized previously. Grand plans don’t have to be super expensive, but the balance of what the space might look and feel like has to make sense for the budget as well. General space planning would allow for maneuvering space in front of shower and tub areas, the sink area(s) and the toilet. Think of a space as a circle or square that you’d need to be comfortable in front of the fixture and know that those imaginary areas can overlap some for baths that will mainly be used by one person at a time. The more people that might be in the bath at once, the less those areas should overlap. When laying out the bath, don’t forget about taller persons by making sure ceiling heights and shower heads are at the appropriate heights. Smaller people, especially kids need some consideration that valves, controls, towel bars and mirrors aren’t too tall for them to use as intended. A multi-purpose, multi-user room like a bath needs lots of special consideration to pull off a successful design. If in doubt, seek out a design pro who can help you see the value in building it on paper before you spend the real money remodeling.

Good question! Building codes say you must have either an operable window or an exhaust fan in any bathroom with a bath/shower. Since most people don’t open windows when they are showering, it is highly recommended that every bathroom has an exhaust fan that vents to the outside. Today your fan can be on a timer, a humidistat or a motion detector to make sure you are venting all that steamy moist air. The biggest mistake made in fan selection is not properly sizing for the bathroom and not venting the exhaust fan completely to the exterior of the home.

Good questions! Linear drains offer more design options for a tile shower floor since you do not need to use small mosaic tiles. With a liner drain, you only need one or two planes of slope to the drain. With a conventional drain, all angles of the shower floor must slope towards the drain. Linear drains are useful when designing a stepless entry shower or when you have a tile floor that transitions into a bathing area. They are, however, more expensive than a conventional round drain and you should definitely have an experienced plumber install them.

Good question! Nothing is more annoying (and potentially dangerous) in the shower than when someone flushes the toilet and suddenly you are getting sprayed with way too hot of water. This is because the shower is suddenly robbed of the proper mix of hot and cold water, what we call pressure differential. On older shower valves this is almost impossible to manage except for taping down the toilet lid or lowering the hot water heater temperature, effectively reducing the overall amount of hot water available to the house. More recent building codes, (written within the last 15 years or so), have done a good job of doing away with this problem by requiring pressure balancing valves. Be aware though, big box stores and discount chains can and do sell the older style valves and the unaware weekend warrior might just end up with an unhappy family. Fly by night contractors might also include these in non-permitted projects as a way to undercut the pros. Again, an area for the buyer to be aware of what they are getting with that unbelievable price. . .

Good question! The pressure-balanced valve has one valve and one handle for operation. You control the temperature and the pressure with one handle. This valve controls and maintains constant water temperature by keeping the hot and cold water pressure the same regardless of the volume of water available at the valve. The manual Thermostatic valve is a little more expensive and has two handles, one to control the temperature and one to control the volume. The advantage is you can set your temperature and never change it. Both do a good job of minimizing big changes in water temperature from other fixtures being used throughout the house at the same time the tub or shower valve is running.

Good question! Those beautiful no-threshold showers are both highly functional and clean looking. But, to transform your existing shower into a no-threshold shower, you might need to adjust the floor framing in your bathroom to accommodate a lower shower floor depending on the shower design and material you select. You will also need to have a plumber put in a new shower drain and possibly waterproof the bathroom floor, at least immediately adjacent to the shower. Discuss options and specifics with a pro who has experience in these types of installations. It must be done right the first time because water going the wrong places can create big problems in a very short amount of time.

Good question! If you already have some can lights in your space, you can easily upgrade them to a more energy efficient LED trim that will give you better lighting than traditional can light bulbs. They are easy to install and run about $10-15 apiece. If you want to add more lighting, LED wafer lights offer the appearance of a traditional can light with a much easier installation. LED wafer lights do not require a housing or box, and are direct wired, so at only ½” thick, they flush mount in the ceiling drywall. The benefit of wafer lights is that their placement is not hindered by existing mechanicals. They can even be installed right over a ceiling joist. Recent technology advancements include LED wafer lights that have adjustable color temperatures so you can adjust the light output to suit you, i.e. daylight or warm light.

Great idea! Farm sinks are not only stylish but can be very functional! There are a few considerations when picking out the right sink such as single or multiple bowls and material choice. White porcelain sinks are bright but can get scratched more easily than a stainless-steel version. Just consider how you use your sink to help make a material and style selection. Once you have decided on the sink, you will probably need to get a new cabinet sink base. Traditional sink bases are not built to accommodate most farm sinks, but there are a few new sinks out there that are made to be “retrofit” into an existing cabinet. These retrofit sinks are usually just not as deep as a standard farm sink. You will also need a new countertop, that will be measured and installed after the sink is installed. It is almost impossible to remove and reuse an existing countertop to work around a new farm sink. Also consider the weight of the new sink, some additional support may be necessary. Finally, you will need a plumber to reinstall the sink, faucet, and disposal. Most farm sink drains are closer to the back of the cabinet to facilitate better draining, and most also require a special drain flange that your plumber can supply.

Good question! There are a minimum of outlets needed on countertops to meet code, but you can always add more. Every 48” of countertop must have an outlet and you must have one no more than 24” from the side of any countertop. Another code issue to consider - any island or peninsula needs at least one outlet as well.

Good question! The most popular backsplash option today is a tile backsplash that sits right on the countertop. Another option is to install a solid surface countertop with a 4” backsplash of the same material. The wall space above the backsplash can be left as painted wall or tiled. Another option that is a little more expensive is to install that same solid surface, i.e. granite, as a backsplash. Two things to consider with that, 1) the cost and 2) you will lose 3CM of space on your counter as the backsplash will be the same thickness as your countertop. Your design professional can assist you in talking through the various options and styles.

Good question! Yes, a new countertop is usually an easy swap out with a few considerations. First, you will probably have to consider a new sink. Most folks are looking to go to an undermount sink and that needs to be installed with your new countertop. That may also mean a new disposal. Backsplashes are another consideration. If you have an existing backsplash it can be hard to remove an existing countertop and install a new one and not disturb the backsplash. You may want to consider a new backsplash in your budgeting.

Good question! Most solid surface countertops are 3 centimeters thick, or about 1 ½ inches. A few marble and granites come in 2cm thicknesses. Some companies offer a real stone veneer that just covers your existing countertop and can be installed in a day.

Good question! That depends on the granite….and the quartz product. Quartz materials typically come in one or two pricing levels, usually in the $60 – $120 per square foot range. Granite, however, can range between $40 – $200 per square foot. Special edges can also increase the overall cost of the countertop. Something else to consider, most often you pay for the square footage you use, but depending on the stone or quartz product, sometimes you may end up paying for an entire slab of material or you could be charged for a minimum square footage (even if you don’t use it all).

Good question! That depends on the granite….and the quartz product. Quartz materials typically come in one or two pricing levels, usually in the $60 – $120 per square foot range. Granite, however, can range between $40 – $200 per square foot. Special edges can also increase the overall cost of the countertop. Something else to consider, most often you pay for the square footage you use, but depending on the stone or quartz product, sometimes you may end up paying for an entire slab of material or you could be charged for a minimum square footage (even if you don’t use it all).

Good question! This is a difficult answer to pinpoint without an inspection and understanding of how the septic is installed. Unlike public sewers which tend to be more consistent in their installation, septic installations vary widely. Depths of main lines, invert heights at the tank and leech field location, not to mention soil type all affect what could be placed and where in relation to the septic system. Most builders would opt not to construct anything in the proximity of the private sewer system. That being said, due diligence in locating and verifying the installation could allow for improvements to be made closer to this area than one might think initially. When in doubt, spend a little bit of time and money to assure you know what is underground. This is an expensive fix if a miscalculation is made.

Good question! If the project is substantial in square footage added or it creates difficulties in how air is moved throughout the home, then it might warrant looking at the furnace and AC. Smaller additions and remodeling/repurposing existing space rarely indicates or requires mechanical replacements or upgrades. Usually, redesigned supply and return air ductwork is all that’s included in the scope of work. In larger remodels and for major additions it is not out of the question that present equipment may not keep up with the additional heating and/or cooling loads. At that point, the contractor and the heating/cooling contractor would consult and present the options to you. Generally, there are always several choices in equipment grades and efficiencies as well as how the distribution should be handled. All have a budget impact, both initially and in the long-term maintenance and operational costs, season to season. Of course, a significant variable of which we have little control is the cost of the electric and /or gas to power the equipment. Saving money up front on less efficient equipment may not save money in the long run due to fluctuating energy costs.

Good question! Zoning may be an important consideration and it’s always best to approach this question sooner, rather than later in the plan development process. Existing homes or older additions/alterations can end up in conflict with newer zoning codes or addendums. Generally, non-compliant structures built prior to a zoning code being enacted are grandfathered into place but plans for improvements submitted after the code was put into force may be an issue with the governing authority. Once a footprint is completed for any improvement that will alter the exterior of the home, take that concept and run it by your city or township official to determine compliance. If the plan is non-compliant then an appeal process probably exists in which a hearing would be held to consider a variance(s) to the zoning code for your project. Variances are usually granted based on demonstrating practical difficulty or hardship in meeting the zoning code in force. If the governing body disagrees and feels there may be a middle of the road solution, most jurisdictions have a process to revise, table a decision or even appeal decisions to a higher authority. Rarely these requests end up in the courts where final determinations can and are made. This is very unusual in residential construction.

Good question! That is a very difficult question due to the site-specific nuances that can ultimately drive the construction budget. All things like access to the site being equal, it is probably less expensive to build onto a structure than it would be to build up. Equally important is the scale and massing of any addition, but this becomes more important if you are considering building a second story (large or small) onto an existing one-story home. A design/build pro can work with you to show several examples of the “look” of either option. Both potential designs are worthy of exploration in terms of the appearance, the function/utility of the new space(s) and the associated budget. Just be sure you ask for the correct representations of what the final product will look like once constructed. There are lots of good examples of well-done second level additions to ranches and there are also many examples of how the architectural integrity, the massing or scale was compromised, sometimes referred to as “remuddling!”

Good question! If you look at all of the costs associated with both single story and two story, the two story generally wins out in best value achieved for the money being invested. The most easily realized cost savings in that the foundation and roof costs are most likely less for the same amount of square footage added. Think of this, if you add 800 square feet, then a single story would require 800 s.f. of foundation and a roof that covers the same 800 s.f. If you would do this over two stories, then the foundation could be built at 400 s.f. and the roof covering would only need to shelter 400 s.f. The cost savings can be substantial, even needing to add access perhaps via a new stairway. Lot conditions, space and layout considerations, surrounding neighborhood and architectural styling preferences can also affect the decision to add a single or 2 story addition. All are important considerations, but dollars generally can be saved by going up.

Good question! Much is being done these days to maximize the return on dollars spent when it comes to new homes and remodels. Some very cost-effective square footage can be derived from the lower level of any home being built or as part of an addition. Crawlspaces serve a great purpose in affordable foundation construction but yield no additional usable square footage to the home. Some consideration to the site and access must go into the mix as well when the decision on crawl versus basement is being debated. Don’t forget about stair access and daylighting of the lower-level space if a basement is being considered. Although it is more costly, the benefit of a basement is generally of great value in our area of the country if the budget would allow such an investment.

Good question! If the budget and site conditions allow a basement to be taken into consideration then it’s best to understand the limitations if the existing home is on a crawlspace or slab on grade. Both would leave the existing foundation unacceptably close to the newer, deeper basement. Engineering would be required to properly support the existing foundation in the area adjacent. This can be done by a process called underpinning or by simply holding the new basement walls a calculated distance from the existing foundation. Working with a pro would be the best way to determine the most cost-effective solution to this situation. Either way is an acceptable approach to maximize the square footage in a lower level below an addition.

705 Lakeview Plaza Blvd., Suite E, Worthington, OH, US