Address: 12370 Doherty St Suite A, Riverside, CA 92503, USA
Phone: +19513402624
Sunday: Closed
Monday: 8AM–12PM
Tuesday: 8AM–12PM
Wednesday: 8AM–12PM
Thursday: 8AM–12PM
Friday: 8AM–12PM
Saturday: Closed
Bryan Rosen
I'm the unfortunate owner of two Fitech units. My first one needs starting fluid about every ten starts to get it running. My second unit after being replaced three times two months ago has started to do the same thing but EVERY TIME. I have to squirt starting fluid to get it to start also. As Fitech is impossible to reach on the phone, luckily I live close to their Riverside location and can talk to them there. I was told to increase the cranking fuel setting but that doesn't help. I still don't get any fuel in the throttle body when I turn the key on. These units are JUNK! And their service is TERRIBLE at best! Anybody had this same problem and can help, please respond before I replace both with Holly EFI.
Barry Murphy
My V-8 Vega was meek and mild when regular driving, but took off like it was shot out of a cannon just by stepping on the gas. Perfect! The only problem is a recurring one... It is like pulling teeth to get it to start. Apparently, the FiTech won't start unless is has over 10 volts on the key lead. I've tried everything, from a $300 red Optima battery (2 of them, neither worked) to installing a button on the dash that directly connects the key lead to the battery. As soon as I start cranking, the battery voltage drops to about 9 volts and it WILL NOT START! The little mickey mouse jump starters don't work either. It has to be either a professional engine start rectifier or jump it from another car. The alternator is a one-wire 160 amp unit and keeps the engine running when the negative cable is removed from the battery, so the alternator is not the problem. The car is equipped with MSD ignition, air conditioning, leather seats, automatic trans (700R4), positraction, power steering, and power brakes. I've driven fast cars all my life, and I estimate this car to be in the low 12's or high 11's in the quarter mile. The person who wrote the response apparently did not read my complaint. I clearly stated: " I've tried everything, from a $300 red Optima battery (2 of them, neither worked), to installing a BUTTON ON THE DASH THAT DIRECTLY CONNECTS THE KEY LEAD TO THE BATTERY." Maybe I wasn't clear whose battery I was using... the one in the car, Dummy!
Auto Werks
Norman with tec support is very helpful. Sorry if this keeps your phone ringing lol. In less than 5 min he was able to anwser my questions that are not all covered in the instructions. Im used to setting up holley efi and recently made the decision to choose another option as IN MY OPINION holley isn't what it used to be. My new understanding of this system explains alot, and possibly why some people are having trouble. If your undestanding of this unit is bolt up and go you will have trouble. If your not fairly familiar with tuning and how fuel injection works I doubt you will be able to ask the right questions or even provide good information to tec support. My advise to the weekend warrior in the garage is take it to a pro for install you will be much happier. I was able to look at my data and determine what my issue was but unsure of the proper way to make adjustments. After our conversation it makes perfect sense thanks again Norman! P.S. to "Owner" I don't have facebook or any other social media nor did I see anything out of the box that says "for tech support hit me up on facebook". After the time I spent on hold my previous review proved to be the best and quickest option available as I was contacted very promptly thanks. Sean NTX Autowerks
Neil Caulfield
UPDATE: See new pictures below of board with poor factory solder craftsmanship. Do not buy one of their products. ECU board died within the first few miles of operation and they quoted me $361 to replace the board with one they say is new and improved. Not only does this admit to me that they knew there was a design issue, but that they are concerned with primarily making back money on the defective units instead of helping customers. They either need to revise their product, include more comprehensive installation instructions, or both. 1 in 4 people on the community Facebook group have had an issue involving warranty service or replacement parts on initial install. That's a very high product failure rate and FiTech should look into why this is the case. Furthermore, their quality control manager Bryce accused me of Slandering their brand name for expressing my frustration with my unit failure and high cost to repair it on social media. He wouldn't answer my question on what issues could have burned up my ECU in the first place. Sounds like they are more concerned with brand image than customer service. Edit in regards to owner reply: I had been in contact with the service/warranty department for weeks over this matter. The response time for emails was still unacceptable leading up to thanksgiving break. Minimal effort was made to attempt to quickly resolve the issue prior to the holiday. Everything others and myself have posted on social media was based on both fact and personal accounts. Furthermore, while the unit was returned to me in the original box with adequate packing material, the ECU cover was cracked on the corner and one of the screws missing.
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This is the white wire connection: On/Off - Connect this wire to a switched 12V circuit. Must be on during both "Key On" and "Cranking." DO NOT connect to the coil terminal when using an external CDI box such as an MSD 6A or any other CD ignition
Yes you can run a standard carburetor spacer with a fitech unit
You can call the tech department 9513402624 option 2
FiTech is not smug legal. Designed for pre-smog
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